Yes. Bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, hall. You can lay it in any room. But, if the insulation is poor (for example, in a fully glazed conservatory), an additional heater may be required.

Water central heating has a longer service life and is suitable for all heat sources. Both nowadays and in the future, you can choose heating based on the energy price and environmental impact.

No. Once the pipe is in place, the pressure is tested and then a check is made to see that no damage has occurred when it was laid. So, once the floor is in place, you can feel reassured that the pipe has been tested and will last for far more than 50 years.

They are usually glued to the floor with flooring adhesive or tile adhesive, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You can screw or staple the panels if a floating floor (laminate or parquet flooring) is laid as a surface layer.

Yes. But you need to use tried-and-tested products, such as Mapei, Weber, Alfix, Kiilto, Casco, Bostik or Schönox and follow their instructions. In wet rooms you always apply screed on top of the underfloor heating before the membrane. However, when laying ceramic tiles, it is always important to ensure that the subfloor is stable, so in some wooden houses a certain amount of extra work may be required on the floor underneath.

In most cases, a shunt is required when the underfloor heating system is to be operated in conjunction with radiators. The shunt lowers the water temperature to ensure that everything is working properly. In a house with only underfloor heating, no additional shunt is required. Everything is then regulated from the heat source.

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